Cucuzza longa soup

Cucuzza: a passion of Donna Nuzza

Cònsala as you always are cucuzza, Prov. which expresses the tastelessness of any food, even though the appropriate condiments, sauces and flavors have been used with due skill.

The cucuzza is nothing other than the courgette . Not just any one, in Sicily cucuzza is above all the long snake-shaped courgette, that of tenerumi, or , to put it "in the Sicilian way", of tinnarumi . That very tender and velvety vegetable like fabric, which I find has an irresistible aroma of the sea. Perhaps this is why it goes well with some seafood, such as sea urchins and mussels.

Outside of Sicily (and if I'm not mistaken, Calabria) it is very difficult to enjoy long courgettes and tenerumi (also called talli , but not in popular and historical markets) and their delicious summer soups which, as grandmother and aunts, “they refresh your stomach” . An apparently contradictory expression, given that the soup is hot, but it is spot on: the final result is precisely that of freshness. In fact, an ancient popular wisdom, probably of Tuareg inspiration, maintains that heat is fought with heat.

So even if, as the proverb I quoted tells us, cucuzza is a derogatory term, we Sicilians (especially Westerners) are madly in love with it. A feeling that is only apparently inexplicable, since our ancestors, even in critical conditions, tried to create delicious dishes. In fact, in order to use courgette, a plant with such a sweet and delicate, even almost neutral flavour, some simple dishes have been invented which have become a full part of our tradition . I would dare say exclusive dishes, given that only here they are cooked and eaten, probably also due to the ease of finding raw materials.

My brother and I have been accustomed since we were children to eating lots of vegetables without the need to disguise them as something else. One of our favorite dishes was (and still is) boiled long courgette , seasoned with a drizzle of oil. The broth created during cooking is irresistible with a crouton, but also to drink, hot or cold. Adults, however, preferred it in the form of soup, with a final sprinkling of salted ricotta.

I don't like cheese and maybe this was holding me back. But, avoiding ricotta, over the years I have fallen madly in love with this soup, which I personally love cold, even from the fridge (which doesn't happen with any other dish).

During the summer evenings, at the long and crowded tables, it often happened to find cucuzza longa soup , to everyone's delight! What I propose to you is precisely the recipe of those evenings, the recipe of the women in my life. Good and simple cooks who raised me ( fed ) with good things, cooked with the ingredient of love.

Ingredients for 4 people)

• 1 long courgette
• 2 new yellow potatoes
• 1 white onion
• 1 clove of crushed poached garlic
• A piece of fresh chilli
• 4 salsa tomatoes
• A handful of basil leaves
• Grated salted ricotta (optional)
• Boiling water (to taste)
• Extra virgin olive oil (to taste)
• Salt and black pepper (to taste)

Preparation

Wash the tomatoes , cut them and blanch them for a few seconds in boiling water. Immediately pass them in cold water, peel them and remove the seeds, then cut them into small pieces .

Slice the onion thinly and brown it over a low heat in a large pan with a generous amount of oil , garlic and chilli pepper .

The time has come to peel the courgette and cut it into pieces . Repeat the same operation with the potatoes and keep everything aside.

When the onion is soft and transparent it means that it is well cooked. At this point, add the tomatoes drained of their water and brown them for a few minutes. Remove the garlic and brown the potatoes for a few seconds, then add the courgettes, leaving them to brown. Add a little salt and, finally, the boiling water . Cover the vegetables halfway, the courgette will expel more water and you will have a delicious broth . Put the lid on and leave to cook for about 30 minutes . After the first quarter of an hour, mix and take the opportunity to check the cooking.

Before serving, let it rest in an uncovered pan (as I told you, it is also good cold, whether at room temperature or in the fridge). Salt to taste, add freshly ground pepper and break up plenty of basil with your hands.

Serve it at the table, accompanying it with salted ricotta for those who like it and plenty of homemade bread , even toasted.

Light and good, to refresh yourself and enrich yourself .

Enjoy your meal in the name of ancient tradition and warmth
familiar.