In Palermo one abandoned announces the arrival of the the sfincionaro's rabbit: I'm talking about the street vendor who, from his Ape car, loudly recommends buying one sfincione. To abandon it means, more or less, declaiming with shouts, between song and rhyme, to make the goods for sale more attractive.
And it sfincione it's not a pizza: it sfincione And sfincione. It falls into the category of humble foods created for festive occasions: a simple focaccia bread made more delicious by the addition of a substantial topping, but created with humble raw ingredients.
Sfincione, like sfinciTo name just a couple, the famous sfinci di San Giuseppe, or the honey ones (ammilati), are well-known. The origin of the name is Latin: sponge (sponge). It is, in fact, a spongy, soft, and porous dough, therefore high.
Sfincione and its variations.
Sfincione isn't the same everywhere. In fact, in addition to the Palermo version, we find the ones from Bagheria, Monreale, San Martino delle Scale, and Corleone. The differences between these variants lie mainly in the dough and the filling. seasoning (the conza).
The correct name of sfincione from the street And sfincionello: a thing in itself, decidedly different from all the others. This sfincionello, whose recipe is secret, is also the star of traditional rotisserie. The diminutive makes it so familiar that we feel the urge to have it in our hands immediately. As soon as its aroma invades us and follows us, or when we hear the call of the sfincionaroHere comes the power of good food and tradition. So we can't ignore it!
My father educated me on the correct consumption and proper preparation of sfincione and sfincionelloHis words still ring in my ears: “These are serious, sacred things! It shouldn't be made with pizza dough, it should be cooked like it used to be. conza it must have more onion than tomato, which, in turn, must not be acidic but very sweet”.
The seasoning (or conza) of the sfincione
The seasoning of the sfincione (the conza ri sfincione), Although there are some variations, it's very popular for the many focaccias typical of different parts of the island. It can also be paired with other dishes to create delicious dishes: with potatoes, artichokes, sardines, cod, and minced meat. A condiment joker With a pungent, sweet, and enveloping flavor. An ode to the onion. A sublime sauce that excites and captivates, enjoyable and digestible.
With potatoes
If you want to indulge yourself, you can use the seasoning of the sfincione with potatoesOnce lightly boiled and cut into slices, you can finish cooking them by putting them in the oven and sprinkling a little bit of conzaOr, you can choose to boil them, mash them and season them with flour (as is done with gnocchi) and put them in the oven with the seasoning poured over them (or, as we would say here in Sicily, with the conza 'ncapo). But this condiment can also be used to stuff the potato gateau (cat or he scratched), perhaps with the addition of a few slices of artichoke in the middle. Here comes the entrance of the prickly and superlative flower! Artichokes are divine along with sfincione: cut into slices of the right thickness, cooked in a casserole or steamed, spread out on a baking tray and covered with the seasoning.
With fish
With fish they win sardines and codThe first ones opened in book form and layer it with the seasoning, to create a cake. The second one is desalted for three days, dried, lightly floured and fried. Spread it on the baking tray and cover it with seasoning (conza) of sfincione. In both cases, you'll enjoy intense, bold flavors that, combined with the lightness of the fish, are quite addictive.
With minced meat
And the minced meat? Choose it. mixed beef and pork, season it as if you were making meatballs, perhaps the oldest and sweetest ones with theaddition of raisins and pine nutsSpread it out on a high baking tray, like a sfincione, and add plenty of seasoning.
Sfincione seasoning: is it the same for everyone?
Naturally, there are small variations from house to house. What all these variations have in common is the presence or absence of capers and black olives, or the addition of potatoes for the cod. However, sardines or anchovies, either salted or in oil, breadcrumbs, oregano, and caciocavallo cheese, both fresh and aged, are essential. Without these ingredients to enhance the flavor of the onion, whether white or golden, what kind of sfincione would it be?
Making the sfincione dough isn't difficult, but it's not a walk in the park either. One thing is for sure: it doesn't take long to make, unlike the topping, which gives you the opportunity to indulge your taste buds. desire to sfincione even at the last minute.
Ingredients for the dough
- 250 g of flour Mediterranean
- 250 g of re-milled durum wheat semolina
- 250 ml of warm water
- 12 g of fresh yeast for a quick leavening or 5 g for a slow leavening (in the fridge)
- 10 g of salt
- ½ tablespoon of granulated sugar (about 10 g)
- ½ glass of extra virgin olive oil (about 80 g) or 50 g of lard (according to an ancient recipe)
Method for the dough
Prepare the yeast. Melt it sugar in half a glass of warm water (about 35°) and crumble the yeast. Let it rest for about 5-10 minutes, to activate it; you will see foam rising to the surface and you will also hear a bubbling sound. In a large, high-sided bowl, combine the floursPlace the yeast in the center and start kneading, gradually adding the remaining water with the salt And theoil (If you use lard, try to add it especially when the dough is more formed, being careful to mix it well).
Try to throw away the flours on yeastKnead and fold the dough until it's soft, elastic, and well-combined. Avoid squashing the dough; instead, work it to give it volume. If you use lard, in particular, the dough will be stickier. You'll need to knead for at least 15 minutes. At this point, you'll notice the rising bubbles.
Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cut the surface with two cross cuts, cover with cling film and place in a warm place away from drafts, covering with a cotton cloth.
I recommend using the oven as a leavening chamber
Before starting to knead, turn the oven on to 50°C for 30 minutes, then turn it off and place the bowl with the dough in it, leaving the oven light on. Let the dough rise for at least 4 hours, as it needs to double in volume. You'll notice that the cuts will have been absorbed by the dough.
If, however, you prefer a long leavening time, use 5 g of yeast and place the dough in the lower part of the refrigerator for 18-24 hours. When the time comes, take it out and put it in a warm place, waiting an hour before working it again.
Once risen, place the dough back on the pastry board, deflate it, and knead again for 5 minutes. Let it rise again for an hour, following the same instructions as the first rise. Now, in a well-oiled baking pan, roll out the dough with your hands, without squashing it, until it is about 2 cm thick. Make dimples in the dough and put the anchovy piecesLet it rise for 30 minutes.
Turn the oven on to 200-220° static. Put pieces of caciocavallo cheese, spread the topping on top and proceed as described in the recipe. Brush with oil and bake for about 25-30 minutes. The dough should rise and become soft. Keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't burn and, if necessary, cover with aluminum foil at a certain point during cooking. Serve the sfincione warm or cold, with a sprinkling of oregano and, adding still more cheese and oil.
Ingredients for the dressing
- 1 kg of mixed onions, golden and red
- 5 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
- 40 g of drained anchovy fillets in oil
- 70 g of tomato paste
- ½ tablespoon granulated sugar
- Water to taste
- Origano q.b.
- Abundant reground breadcrumbs
- Sale
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 100 g of fresh caciocavallo cheese cut into thin strips
- 100 g of grated caciocavallo cheese
- ½ tablespoon of Capers
- Black olives (optional)
Seasoning procedure
Cut the onions Thinly sliced. Set aside about ten anchovies and melt the rest in a pan with the oil, adding a tablespoon of water. Once melted, add the onions and cook covered for half an hour over low heat, stirring frequently.
Meanwhile, melt the tomato paste with hot water and, once the time has passed, pour it into the saucepan. Add the sugar and hot water, so that it just covers the onions. Continue cooking for an hour, stirring often, with the lid on and over low heat. Season with salt and pepper and let cool.
Chop the rest of the anchovies and distribute them with part of the caciocavallo fresh over whatever you decide to prepare (vegetables, fish, meat, or dough). Pour the onion mixture over it, sprinkle it with the remaining fresh caciocavallo cheese, distribute the capers and sprinkle with the grated cheese and with abundant breadcrumbs. Add also the olive, here and there sinking them into the conza.
At this point, pour a handful of breadcrumbs into the pan where you previously cooked the onions. This way, you can collect any leftovers of the magnificent sauce! Finish with plenty of oregano And with a final touch that makes all the difference: lightly press the sauce down towards the bottom of the pan. Repeat this process several times.
Cook your dish in the oven for the necessary time and enjoy it warm. With these doses you can cover a large baking tray, in any case, if you have any onion sauce left over, be aware that, being rich in natural preservatives, it keeps in the fridge for several days.
Wine pairing: Maria Costanza Rosso
Name: Sicilia DOC
Grapes: Nero d'Avola
Alcohol content: 14% vol
The Maria Costanza Rosso represents the most intense expression of the Sicilian Nero d'AvolaThe grapes, grown on the marly and clayey soils of the Giuseppina and Milici plateau, are harvested by hand in mid-October and carefully vinified between fermentation in steel and barrique.
After about 18 months of maturation between wood and steel, the wine develops an elegant and complex profile.
Tasting notes: intense red color with purple reflections; floral and fruity hints on the nose morello cherry, with delicate aromas of spices, nettle and fig leaf. On the palate it is soft, velvety and elegant, with a long, persistent finish.
Perfect in combination with red meats, roasts and mature cheeses, enhancing the typical flavours of Sicilian cuisine.
Enjoy your meal, in the spirit of ancient tradition and family warmth.
Sicilian cuisine is a journey: continue to discover it by looking for other recipes and products on www.emporiosicilia.it
