In the south there is gatò . Here you also get scratched potatoes . For me it was a mysterious word. Only in middle school did I discover its origin. Gateau in French means cake : this is the influence that foreign dominations have had on our dialect, as well as on our dishes.
Grattato , a mispronunciation that indicates a "recovery" dish that is delicious in all its forms. Although it is also good cold, the gateau is delicious if served at room temperature . It is necessary that it rests well and, in some cases, that the cheese is still soft. You can also safely eat on the beach, on picnics or while walking. A delicious flan full of surprises. An ancient variant has it prepared in a pan, because once upon a time you didn't always have an oven. Those who enjoyed this luck, however, used a large aluminum pan to bake it.
The gateau and its variants
My aunt used to make it with rag , or the bottoms of cured meats and cheeses. Obviously, that of the rag is an image that does not stimulate any salivation, but I assure you that between two layers of potatoes it would bring even the dead back to life! Grandmother, however, made it with peas and ham , or with a rich layer of mixed ragù .
There is also the variant with anchovies, with hard-boiled eggs and artichokes, with salami and caciocavallo, with sfincione seasoning, with wild fennel, bacon and primo sale...
In short, there are many versions because you can easily go from tradition to the simplest leftovers from the fridge. What matters is playing with the ingredients and enjoying lots of goodness. The contrasts of textures that explode on your palate and the simple flavors, in a perfect fusion between the delicate and the bold ones. These are the characteristics of a good cat .
My memories are linked to summers in the countryside, when it was prepared in the morning during a ritual in which I witnessed and participated with joy. This was awaited all day by us irrepressible greedy people, until it arrived in the evening, beautifully compact as it should be. At dinner, around that large table loaded with all sorts of goodies, when there was scratching it was a celebration for me.
Today we present the version with fried aubergines, ham and caciocavallo .
A real treat!
Ingredients (for 8 people, with a 26 cm Ø baking tray)
- 1,250 g of yellow-fleshed potatoes
- 1 egg
- 1 white onion
- 70 g of grated Grana Padano
- Salt, pepper and breadcrumbs (to taste)
- A few flakes of butter
- 150 g of sliced cooked ham
- 150 g of fresh caciocavallo cut into cubes
- 3 local aubergines
- Extra virgin olive oil for frying
Method
First prepare the aubergines . Slice them thickly, sprinkle them with salt and place them in a colander for at least 40 minutes . In this way, they will lose their bitterness, or the vegetation liquid, and by placing a weight on them, you will accelerate this osmotic process .
In the meantime, boil the potatoes in plenty of salted water .
Now spread the aubergines on a cloth, placing another on top , in order to dry them and make your frying perfect, as long as the oil is very hot. Place them on special paper to blot the excess grease.
When the potatoes are cooked, peel them and mash them with a potato masher while they are still hot. Let them cool for a few minutes and mix them with the egg . Season with salt , add the pepper , the finely chopped onion and the Grana Padano . Keep some cheese aside for finishing. Make sure the mixture is very firm, if not, add more Grana Padano.
Generously butter a baking tray and sprinkle it with plenty of breadcrumbs on the bottom and edges. At this point, get a small bowl full of water and a metal spoon.
Now you can make your own potato scratcher . Pour half the potato mixture onto the baking tray and, with wet hands , spread the mixture so that it adheres well to the bottom and the edge. Wet the back of the spoon and smooth. Create three dimples and insert as many flakes of butter. Now have fun alternating ham, aubergines and caciocavallo . The more layers you make, the better the gateau will be. Enriched with a nice sprinkling of cheese , close with the remaining mixture and add more butter .
Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and Grana Padano . Add a few more flakes of butter or, if you prefer, a drizzle of oil. Cover with aluminum foil . Bake at 180° (gas) in a preheated oven . After 25 minutes remove the foil. And continue cooking for another quarter of an hour , or until you see a nice golden crust. Turn it out after at least half an hour and serve.
Of course, you can also season the potatoes with herbs, such as parsley ( pitrusino ) and you can use grated pecorino instead of parmesan. Or try this recipe with smoked scamorza.
The potato gateau will become an indispensable dish: too good not to cook it often, equally convenient to offer in times of lean... ideas and pantry!
Buon Appetito in the name of ancient tradition and family warmth.
